Yeah, people can now read it again. Some kind of routine maintenance on the site brought it down at 4am UK time. But now it’s back and I’m talking about how it was down temporarily, instead of telling you about the USA.

This is Chicago, a city in which I once worked for six weeks, after being sent here to help set up the US office of [A Company], my Australian employer. Many CEOs and managerial shakeups later (and a ton of politics under the bridge) the company folded in the US and survived back in Australia. But that’s another sorry tale.

Here, now, it’s sunny, not under a foot of snow, and I’m here with my lovely wife instead of separated by thousands of miles. It’s not my birthday, and instead of sleeping in a small, dodgy hotel room with a pull-down bed, we’re staying with my new step-uncle in his fabbo loft apartment, typing this on a wireless keyboard plugged into a computer driving a huge plasma screen TV.

This is more fun than last time.

The trip so far? NYC was a blast, and I don’t know how we’d have topped that. Chicago deep dish pizza is one way, and we finally got our own last night, from Gino’s East down the road. An enormous, thick, fresh topless pizza pie, loaded with tomato, undercut with cheese, plus crumbled sausage and other things, but if I go on I’ll have to reach over to the fridge for a slice, and then the keyboard would get sticky and make nobody happy. It’s not even as bad for you as you’d think.

Many other things, however, are. Servings are huge, as are a number of Chicagoans. New York seems to have a greater number of fitness/fashion freaks, and more people drive here, so the average weight of the locals increases. The cars, though, are actually smaller. I guess New Yorkers don’t actually need to drive often, so those who do buy cars get them as status symbols. Here it’s a little more real. Cars are pushier, drivers less considerate to pedestrians. Spaces between interesting things are larger, and so walking is discouraged. Oh, the staff – certainly the security staff – at the Chicago Art Institute are just unfriendly, and the place closes early, at 4.30 sharp, with galleries 15 minutes before that. Example: it’s getting near closing time so we’re rushing a little. We ask a security guard where the restroom (that’s loo, toilet or bog to you) is, and she says in a bored manner, with a lingering undercurrent of distaste, that they’re down those stairs, if they haven’t been locked yet. (They lock the toilets a few minutes before they close.)

It’s also probably the only place I’ve been that forces you to check your bag, then charges for the privilege. So take advantage of their “pay as you wish” policy and pay them less; they’re mean and they don’t deserve it. Some nice impressionist works, though.

So while here, we’ve done some shopping – I must be up to about 30 shirts in my wardrobe by now, including the ones shipped home – been to the zoo, seen some tall buildings, some large open spaces, a highly reflective silver sculpture near a Gehry-designed roof (neither open yet, part of the unfinished Millenium Park, just a tad late) and been out to dinner with my new step-uncle, some new and interesting beers and a pizza pot pie – similar to a deep dish but kind of different. Very nice, though the hot cheese on top (after the table-based upturning ceremony) does tend to remind you what your arteries will look like after you’ve finished. Mmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Last night held some drinks with some of my step-uncle’s friends, the aforementioned Chicago pizza and Ferris Bueller’s Day Off – which is a Chicago movie. A proper Chicago evening.

Today holds a peace fair and a folk festival, then a beer in the bar at the top of the John Hancock Building, if they let us in. Sure, the beers are expensive, but the view’s priceless, and the alternative is to pay to access the observation deck a floor above. So I’ll pay for the beer instead.

More from the next stop, Star Prairie, where I meet my new step-siblings, the other 500+ residents of the town, and hang out with my dad and new stepmother. She’s not wicked at all. Well, maybe a little. I’ll post from the coal cellar and tell you all about it.

The big New York City post. Hopefully I can backtrack to some of the UK stuff, but right now that’s a little patchy. Here’s NYC so far:

DAY BY DAY

Wednesday 30 Jun: arrive, midtown, out for body clock adjustment, wrap + panini.

Thursday 1 July: Empire State Building for orientation, shopping to/from, midtown, Times Square.

Friday 2: Guggenheim, not The Met, Central Park, Upper East Side, Spider-Man 2 (not great).

Saturday 3: move hotels to East Village Bed and Coffee (recommended), look about, head out to Soho Apple Store via everything else in the way, including a good knish. World Trade Center site (no I’m not buying your postcards you vulture) and Century 21, Battery Park, eventually Staten Island Ferry at sunset, then a bus back. Buses are good!

Sunday 4: cycle to J&R downtown to buy new camera (Canon A80), out to Central Park, listening to Imagine and some Beatles by buskers in Strawberry Fields, a little Upper West Side wandering.

Monday 5: Greenwich Village, Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn Bridge at sunset.

Tuesday 6: Drop off washing for $5, out to Natural History Museum – fantastic, didn’t even get to see the dinosaurs, all the newly redone exhibits are just great, Central Park once more, bus, more good food.

INTERESTING THINGS

  • A woman in the Guggenheim reading room who was turning pages with her feet – she had no arms.
  • The sound of midtown Manhattan by night, up high, is wild, as are the views.
  • A storm breaking the back of a humid heatwave; the guy outside instantly selling umbrellas.
  • Taxidermy done well (as opposed to creepy and Victorian) at the Natural History Museum. Awe-inspiring displays of biodiversity, geology and cosmology, and a scale model of the Mars rovers.
  • St Mark’s Place (8th Ave) for the best selection of casual eating anywhere ever.
  • Discovering that manual controls on a digital camera really make a world of difference (the Canon A80 is a bargain).
  • The metro and the buses are air conditioned!
  • The ale house in Brooklyn Heights serving a wider selection of draft beers than even a great English pub. And they aren’t all lagers.
  • New Yorkers are friendly, and everywhere feels safe. Really. You can even cross the road without fear.
  • Some places include the tax in listed prices, but most don’t. And tipping everywhere means that you never really know just how much something will cost you. At a 99c store, each item will be $1.08.
  • Prices listed in guidebooks are way out of date, because when prices go up, they jump in large amounts. A cab from the airport is now $45 + tolls + tip. But the exchange rate means that if you’re spending pounds, that’s still about £30.
  • Bagels, bagels, bagels. And iced coffee. And smoothies. All good. In fact, we haven’t had bad food here, not like bad food in London. Not an Full English Breakfast to be seen.
  • Central Park is great, the lungs of this city.
  • Even though this is one of the least metric countries on Earth, some drinks are still sold as 16.9 fl oz (ie. 500ml). And the Natural History Museum uses metric first.
  • Tons of anti-Bush t-shirts, slogan, logos and feeling.
  • Oh, it’s not all good. Legal guns mean that people get shot. Not many in such a large city, but four on the subway in the last month is cause for concern.

So yeah, visit New York. Last time I was here, in 1997, I was on a AUS$50/day budget, and still had a good time. Now, we can afford meals, and we’re having a blast. Not sure how the rest of the country will be in comparison, but we’ll find out.

So, travelling to a new country can shake away some of the blues. In New York City, blogging from the Apple Store, and everything’s good.

A new case for the iPod after I left the last one on a plane, a quick look around the goodies, and soon onward to see what’s happening downtown. For a while there, the UK was feeling a little too familiar. Sure, it’s nice to explore local real ales and climb some mountains, but it felt a little predictable. Wales was great, but not weird. If you don’t find the unexpected, why go? NYC, so far, has been pretty interesting.

America: a land of consumption and politeness. Not cheap, but cheaper than London. And accommodation, for the most part, just as dingy, though not where we are now: East Village Bed & Coffee. Very nice, bohemian, abstract kind of place.

More when I’ve collected my thoughts a little.

Two more pieces featuring Adam. The first is a set of stills (animated GIF) featuring Adam from a periodic QuickCam movie from New Year’s Eve 1995. Make your own with a webcam set to take stills every x seconds (17 is good). Some camcorders now do similar things too.

The second is a QuickTime VR object movie which lets you spin Adam around on a chair. This is from 1997, around the same time we were mucking about with QTVR and came up with the idea and concept proof for Identikit, which I finished for Stuff-Art 1998. Adam’s in that too.

I’m delaying dinner, so I’ll be brief. Here’s a photo from the last time I saw Adam, in 2002. Living overseas does mean you sometimes miss out on the most important things.

Adam Neykoff-Davies

I was on the wrong side of the planet to deliver this in person, and the funeral has now taken place. I’m sad this wasn’t said at the right time and place, but this is what I wanted to say, my eulogy to Adam.

If Adam wanted to do something, he’d do it himself. If that din’t work out, he’d find someone who could, and convince them to do it for him. If that still didn’t work – through lack of funds, planning, or legal issues – then he’d store the bits in his warehouse.

Adam wanted to do everything, and luckily enough, knew everyone. Only at Adam’s could you find a German DJ playing a chillout set for fun, enough silver foil to cover the dancefloor, a bubble machine going mad and several mirrorballs to light it all up. At any given time, someone new would be sitting in a corner, cutting out stars.

My whole family knew Adam. My father and he stayed awake all night in conversation, my sister sold beer at his O-Week events while underage, and my mother, among other things, made Adam an enormous, red, spiral codpiece.

To me? Adam was the best kind of friend: true, loving and honest. My future life, as many others, now has an Adam-shaped hole. Nobody can fill that gap, but I’ll always try to imagine what he would have brought, and do the best I can.

This is hard. On holiday, escaping, walking around the Cotswolds and Wales, and I’ll gather and share thoughts on all of that later on. But right now it’s all on hold.

First, though, I’m sorry that I don’t have everyone’s phone number with me, and I’m really sorry to say something like this in words on a screen, but there’s never a good way to say it.

One of my best friends in Australia, Adam Neykoff-Davies, has been killed in a car accident, along with the driver and another passenger. They were all students at QUT, returning from Carnarvon Gorge on Saturday night, when the driver swerved to avoid cattle on the road.

Adam was a crazy guy in the best way. He inspired love, friendship and creativity, brought the right people together in the right way, the glue that made creative things happen. I’m glad to have been able to call him my friend, and desperately sad to lose him.

If you knew Adam, you’ll know what we’ve lost. If you live in Brisbane, he’s the one who sold glowsticks at raves for many years, wandered around Strawberry Fields in a spacesuit, stilt walked in Jackie Chan’s First Strike, wore gold body paint in an art event with Pope Alice, and scared small children covered in red body paint wearing an enormous codpiece that my mother made. Raise a glass. He’s irreplaceable.

Work is over. Three months wandering await. In Southampton, on to Mottisfont Abbery and probably the Cotswolds tomorrow. Will keep you posted when I’m conscious and with a coherent thought process. Cheers all round.

One week of work to go. Actually, the Monday holiday makes that four days. A house to pack, four websites to finish, a bike to sell, data and memories to back up thoroughly and send by different means. Then, a long holiday with lots of driving and camping. England, Wales, Dublin, England, New York City, Chicago, Wisconsin, San Francisco, Yosemite, the Rockies, (Canada?), the west coast, LAX, Brisbane.

Right now, everything we do is for the last time. Yesterday, as I rode to work, each tree, building and light was, potentially, never to be seen again. Never to weave my way along Clapham High Street, never make that call about which way I should go around Clapham Common, and to slowly forget where all those potholes lie in wait. Am I going to ride across Battersea Bridge one last time? Will Nic and I ride together in London again?

On a bigger scale, will the UK be even roughly the same when we eventually come back? When I left the UK at age 8, nuclear war was a serious scenario, one of the reasons my family migrated. Once more, there’s an underlying tension, a fear of destruction and loss, though not as bad as the US seems to have it. One big attack can change the psyche of a place for a long time, and everyone entering the US is photographed, fingerprinted, interrogated. A friend just back took two hours to enter San Francisco, and had her bag entirely emptied. Hopefully, we won’t be behind a flight from the middle east when we arrive at JFK, or we’re stuffed.

To return, the scooter is for sale on gumtree.com, in Loot and on its spiritual home, byscooter.com. Someone called about the bike yesterday, and arranged to see it last night. Then stood me up, stealing valuable beer festival time.

It’s a shame that scooters like this one fall between the licensing gaps. A bike licence is required for anything over 125cc, so you have to want to ride a big scooter to want to buy the bike. The audience is limited, and it’s not that it wouldn’t sell, just that it will take time that we don’t have. If I’m lucky, I can convince a friend to buy it. Otherwise, if a dealer wants it, they can have it. We’ll see. I’ll let you know.